At this year’s Haute Horlogerie Show in Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne (Lange) adjusted the details of the three watches in the Saxonia (Saxon) series, Seemingly these extremely minor changes, but all embodies the designer’s unremitting pursuit of perfection and extremes. I have said before that Lange currently has 5 major series. In one sentence, it is summarized that 3 scales, 1 eccentricity and 1 beat. One of the 3 scales refers to the Saxony series. Let’s take a look at what this minor adjustment of Lange has brought to the Saxony series?
The third is the first Saxony watch
The Saxony and Lange 1 and 1815 series are considered to be the three oldest Lange series, and since 1994, Lange has launched watches that have continued to this day. With the small three-handed and large calendar, Saxony has given people the impression of simplicity and purity from the time of its introduction. Although this series has introduced many complex watches such as chronograph and 31-days, it still does not change its classic nature.
Of all the Lange watch collections, only the Saxony series is named after a place, which shows how important this place is to Lange or to the entire German watch industry. Because the town of Glashütte, where the Lange watch factory is located, is under the jurisdiction of the German state of Saxony, which also provides all the necessary soil for Glashütte to become a watchmaking town. In 1168, the existence of a silver mine was found near the Freiberg in Saxony today, followed by a veritable ‘silver rush’. At that time, everyone rushed to this area and wanted to try it. Own luck. In the following centuries, the silver mine not only brought a bustling scene to Saxony, but also left a broad stage for the development of art and processing technology in the future, because the resources of Saxony are the basis of all industrial development, until now Saxony is still the most populous and most industrialized state in eastern Germany.
The first Saxony wrist performance was treasured in the Lange watch factory. When it was first launched, the series was inlaid with diamond-shaped scales.
I said earlier that the Saxony series is one of the three scales, which shows that the biggest feature of the series is its scale. The scale is mainly a precious metal inlaid bar scale. The style is mainly simple and atmospheric. The watch models have three hands and two hands. Mostly, the most complicated functions can reach the double-tracing chronograph and 31-day long power, and the Datograph chronograph which is admired by countless collectors also comes from this series. In simple terms, this series is in addition to a perpetual calendar function watch with Roman numerals inlaid with scales. In the future, you will see that Lange’s models with inlaid scales and not eccentric design are Saxon series. The three characteristics of the three watches that we have adjusted slightly this year are even more obvious.
Saxonia Manual Small Three Hands
Before the change
Someone once said that if you want to know whether a watch brand is good or bad, it only suffices to look at two points. One is to look at the most complicated work of the brand, the other is to look at the simplest work, the strength of the former, and the strength of the latter. It’s attitude. This small three-handed Saxon manual watch is undoubtedly the most standard latter. This watch is not only the simplest watch with Lange functions, but also the smallest watch with a size of only 35 mm. Women’s watches have not been produced for a long time, so Lange also uses this watch and the diamond-studded version of this watch as women’s watches for everyone to choose from. Of course, this watch is not suitable for women with very thin wrists.
After the change
This is a clean and pure watch. Except for the scale, hands and logo on the dial, you will find that any element is redundant. After fine adjustment, the position of the hour marker in 18K gold is closer to the edge of the dial. 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are more distinguished by a double-bar inlaid scale, while the black minute scale is slightly increased. After comparison, you will find that although it is only a small change, it makes the entire watch look more spiritual. Bring a stronger visual experience, and after a careful taste, you will feel that the heat is just right, one point is over, and one point is a loss. This is what we often say that only the top watch brands have a design Skill.
Of course, there is another more important reason to say that this watch is a sincere attitude. This reason is naturally its movement. The L941.1 manual winding movement carried on this watch is not only Lang The grid function is the simplest and also the smallest movement, with a diameter of only 25.6 mm. Although the function of this movement is the simplest, the craftsmanship and standards have not shrunk at all.
Unplated German silver three-quarter plywood, blue steel screws, gold sleeves, gooseneck fine-tuning, hand-carved pendulum splints … not only are these classic elements of Lange not only rare, but also the most complicated The standard executed by the movement is exactly the same, especially the shiny little triangle on the outer pillar of German silver hairspring, which is really fascinating.
Saxony Small Three-Hand Automatic
Before the change
Having just finished talking about Lange’s simplest manual watch, let’s take a look at this Lange’s simplest automatic watch. This watch has a diameter of 38.5 mm and is a standard men’s formal watch. In the adjustment of details, In addition to the same changes as the small three-hand manual watch, the ten-digit scale of the small seconds dial has been increased.
After the change
Everyone at a glance may think that adding a number is nothing, but as long as you compare it with the old model, you will instantly find that it is too convenient to read the number, especially at the right time, and you still feel that there are no numbers. The small seconds dial is indeed a little bare.
Compared with the simplest manual movement, this watch is equipped with the L086.1 automatic movement. I call it the second most beautiful automatic movement in the heart of the world. On the Daymatic watch), the automatic gold-plated embossed sandblasted and platinum-plated automatic rotor is on the movement, and you can be enchanted by just looking at it.
Compared with Lange’s eccentric rotor, this large swing rotor is not only more domineering in shape or momentum, but also has a power reserve of 72 hours. At the same time, this movement is also one of Lange’s few movements that can appreciate the large-scale beaded German silver plywood.
Saxony dual time zone automatic watch
Before the change
Subjectively speaking, the dual time function is my favorite function, especially for those watch media who often travel to and from the two countries and us, who make pilgrimage to the watch country every year, this function is particularly useful. I even think that this function is the most important function other than watch timepieces. The most important thing is that this function is simpler than Universal Time. After all, most of them will not cross N time zones in a short time. This Lange is different from other brands. When you set the standard time in your place of residence, the dial will only show the gold hour hand, and another blue steel hour hand will hide below and continue to run until the watch When the Lord arrives at his destination and adjusts the gold hour hand to local time, the blue hand will appear. This seems to be the first surprise of each journey. The number of times the blue hand appears also represents your long journey. frequency.
After the change
After the adjustment, the Saxony dual time zone watch not only made the same changes as the small three-hand automatic watch, but also reduced the case diameter from 40 mm to the most classic 38.5 mm. For today’s era where the watch is getting bigger and bigger, It is extremely admirable for Lange to have a move, which shows that Lange does not follow the trend, but has his own thoughts and attitudes.
Compared with the old models, the formal watch is obviously smaller and more delicate and dexterous. In terms of movement, this watch is equipped with L086.2 automatic movement. The difference from type 1 is that the function modules when two places are added to the back of the movement.
Summary: By comparing the new and old models, you will find that the more these tiny details are adjusted, the more you can see the depth of the brand’s design skills, and it is the ultimate pursuit of these tiny details that ultimately made Lange in The status of the watch industry! Encouragingly, two of these three watches, Saxonia Automatic and Saxonia Dual Time, have now arrived at Lange’s Nanjing West Road store in Shanghai. Welcome everyone to taste them. (Text / picture watch house Mao Zhuang)